Classification and Characteristics of Silk

Introduction

Silk fabric is a natural fiber textile woven from silkworm, primarily comprising varieties such as mulberry silk and tussah silk. Characterized by its skin-friendliness, breathability, and soft luster, it is widely utilized in both the apparel and home furnishings sectors. Based on weave structure, it is classified into 14 distinct categories, including spun silk, crepe, satin and so on. When authenticating silk, it can be distinguished from synthetic fiber products through specific characteristics, such as its pearlescent sheen and the feather-like scent emitted when burned.

The primary distinctions between Tussah silk and Mulberry silk manifest across various dimensions—including raw material sources, fiber characteristics, appearance and color, processing techniques, tactile texture, and suitable applications. Each possesses its own unique attributes, making them suitable for meeting different needs.

Comparison of Raw Materials and Basic Properties

Origin and Silkworm Varieties:

The mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori) is an insect belonging to the family Bombycidae. Native to China, it has been domesticated for indoor rearing and is therefore also known as the domestic silkworm. The spinning of silk and the formation of a cocoon constitute an instinctual adaptation to the environment for the mulberry silkworm, the silk glands—responsible for generating and secreting the silk material—are a pair of translucent, highly convoluted tubular organs. The silk material itself consists of two components: fibroin and sericin, both of which are proteins composed of 18 different amino acids.


The tussah silkworm (Antheraea pernyi) is larger in body size than the mulberry silkworm and possesses a correspondingly larger appetite. It requires an outdoor environment—specifically oak forests—in which to grow, spin silk, and form its cocoon, for this reason, the tussah silkworm is also referred to as the "mountain silkworm." The pupae and adult  tussah silkworms are rich in proteins and other nutrients, and products derived from them include various food items.

Origin and Production Volume:

Mulberry silk is primarily produced in southern China—regions such as Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Sichuan, whereas Tussah silk is mainly produced in northern China, specifically in areas like Liaoning, Shandong, and Henan. China accounts for over 90% of the global output of Tussah silk. 

Physical Properties and Processing Differences

Fiber Structure and Characteristics:


Length and Resilience:

Mulberry silk is classified as a long-staple fiber; it possesses strong elasticity and resilience, making it the preferred material for traditional hand-pulled silk duvets. Conversely, Tussah silk fibers are shorter and exhibit weaker elasticity and resilience; consequently, "machine-processed silk duvets" typically utilize Tussah silk. Mulberry silk (and its cocoons) naturally presents a pure white hue, requiring no chemical bleaching during the manufacturing of silk duvets. In contrast, Tussah silk (and its cocoons) typically undergoes chemical bleaching to approximate the color and tactile quality of Mulberry silk. While Mulberry silk is predominantly used in garment manufacturing, Tussah silk features a more complex internal structure; the individual microfibers within its cocoon filaments contain distinct interstitial voids and capillary pores. With a porosity level approximately double that of Mulberry silk, it demonstrates superior breathability, moisture absorption, and thermoregulatory capabilities, making it an ideal material for bedding products.

Diameter and Fineness:
Mulberry silk fibers have a diameter of approximately 8 microns, making them extremely fine; Tussah silk fibers have a diameter of about 70 microns—nearly nine times that of mulberry silk—and are therefore significantly coarser.


Cross-Section and Structure:
Mulberry silk fibers feature a circular cross-section and a dense internal structure; Tussah silk fibers possess a flattened-oval cross-section with longitudinal grooves running along the surface. Furthermore, they are composed of two parallel, flattened monofilaments and feature a porous internal structure.

Appearance and Processing:
Natural Color:
Mulberry silk exhibits a natural white or pale yellow hue; Tussah silk, influenced by pigments from the oak leaves consumed by the silkworms, appears in shades of light brown, yellowish-brown, or grayish-blue.

Processing Requirements:
Due to its naturally bright color, mulberry silk typically requires no chemical bleaching and can be used directly; Tussah silk, however—as its natural coloration is not widely accepted—often requires bleaching treatments (such as the use of fluorescent whitening agents) to improve its color and texture.

Performance and Suitability Selection

Tactile Feel and Comfort:
Due to its ultra-fine fibers, Mulberry silk possesses a soft, smooth, and delicate texture that feels exquisite against the skin and resists clumping. Tussah silk, in contrast, has a relatively drier, coarser, and stiffer feel, exhibiting greater structural rigidity.

Comparative Performance Advantages:
Mulberry Silk: Boasts excellent moisture absorption and breathability (earning it the title "Queen of Fibers"). It offers good thermal insulation, is highly skin-friendly—making it suitable for sensitive skin—and is an eco-friendly, healthy choice (its production generates minimal pollution, and the material is even utilized in the manufacture of artificial blood vessels).


Tussah Silk: Characterized by high tensile strength and excellent toughness, making it more durable. It also offers good moisture absorption and breathability, as well as resistance to acids, alkalis, and light exposure (its porous structure allows it to effectively absorb ultraviolet radiation).

Suitable Applications and Selection Advice:
Mulberry Silk: Best suited for products where the priority is ultimate softness, skin-friendliness, and a sense of luxury—such as high-end lingerie, intimate apparel, and lightweight silk duvets (it is particularly ideal for hand-pulled silk filling).


Tussah Silk: Best suited for products requiring durability, toughness, and high cost-effectiveness—such as outdoor apparel, sports gear, ethnic-style clothing, and silk duvets where warmth and longevity are key considerations. Tussah silk is typically more affordable in price.

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